My dress for the Minerva Blogger Network this month has a definite vintage feel to it. I used the vintage-inspired Eliza M Audrey Dress pattern which Claire, the lady behind Eliza M and Simple Sew patterns, gave to me for review purposes. I teamed the pattern with some of Minerva’s delightful designer cotton lawn in a retro print. I think it’s a good pairing! (Coincidentally, Minerva now stocks Eliza M patterns, which is brilliant).
The cotton lawn was amazing to work with. It feels so soft, it is light and drapes quite well for a cotton, and it behaves itself in that it doesn’t seem to stretch or warp. The print is awesome, obviously (I’m easily won over by novelty). Best of all, the fabric is 60” wide, which means you don’t need very much of it at all to make a dress. This dress has a full circle skirt but I used less than 2 metres of fabric. Winner.
I really love the design of the Audrey dress – the low V back especially. It isn’t lined: the neck and armholes are finished with a facing, which I like because it keeps the cost down and it’s easy to make. I actually used a plain black cotton for the facings, in order to try and preserve as much of the main fabric as possible. By doing this I was able to make the dress in a size 14 out of 1m65 of main fabric and 35cm of plain cotton for the facings.
The print of the fabric is two-way, so at the side seams of the circle skirt, the print is running horizontally, but I quite like this effect. The only downside to squeezing a circle skirt onto 60” wide fabric was that I was unable to lengthen it as it only just fit on. I’m quite tall at 5’10” and this dress sits a few inches above the knee – what might be termed as a ‘fun and flirty’ length when you’re no longer in your twenties! I think I can just about get away with it with bare legs in summer, so long as I’m wearing knickers with decent bum-coverage underneath just in case the wind catches the skirt…
I underestimated the amount of ease built into the pattern, which is actually pretty true to size, so I had to make a few alterations to the pattern. I tapered out from the armscye to the waist from 5/8” to 1/4”, and used a slightly smaller seam allowance at the centre back (3/8” instead of 5/8”). However, I don’t think I’d cut a 16 next time as I like the fit I got with these alterations. I would like to lengthen the bodice slightly though, which would also have the advantage of lengthening the dress overall without having to alter the skirt pattern.
I like the overall presentation of the pattern itself, although I do have a few gripes:
- The pattern envelope is sealed at the top with gummy, sticky glue, which is messy and annoying. It would be better for it to just fold inwards rather than be sealed in this way.
- It doesn’t say on the pattern envelope that you need a zip for this dress, and even in the instructions sheet it doesn’t state what length of zip you need. Luckily I knew from having made a million other dresses what I would need (a 16″ zip – I used a concealed one).
- The tissue paper is thicker than the normal type and feels better quality and more hard-wearing, but the pattern is printed on one giant sheet of paper measuring 1m x 2.5m which is pretty difficult to handle. I think it would be better printed on two smaller sheets for ease of handling.
- The line-drawing for the Audrey dress is misleading – it suggests a gathered skirt rather than a circle skirt.
Other than that, the pattern is good. I love the vintage-inspired design of the dress: the low V back and the circle skirt. The pattern drafting is good: I like the waist darts because they are wedge-shaped which means that it comes in under the bust and fits the midriff nicely, and I like the facings which eliminate the need for a full lining but which are satisfyingly deep and definitely won’t pop out. The overall design of the paper pattern itself is appealing, and the instructions are clear.
I think I’ve said as much as I can about the pattern: it only remains for me to say that I’m very pleased with my new dress (as always!) and want to say thank you to Eliza M patterns for providing the pattern and of course to Minerva for the fabric and the zip!
‘The Fabric Selector’ by Dana Willard is the second book kindly sent to me for review by Search Press, and what a book it is! This is a compact reference book which provides information about a vast range of different fabric types, and about different notions, tools and trimmings.
This book is so useful, and so interesting, that I cannot part with it, so there is no giveaway this time. It’s a keeper. It is essential for a sewing enthusiast who likes to work with a wide range of fabrics, or at least who is interested in a wide range of fabrics. It’s a really comprehensive guide and is well suited to a sewing geek like me. I began to flick through the book and ended up almost reading it in full – I couldn’t help but be drawn in by fascinating facts and within ten minutes I learnt so much!
Here are a few (random) things I learnt in that ten minutes. Maybe you readers already know these particular things, but I’ll bet there’s still plenty you could learn from this book if you bought it because it is crammed full of information!
- In the section about fasteners, ‘hook and loop’ is listed. I wondered what this was, and found out that it is more commonly known by its trademark name, ‘Velcro’ (p190)
- We make ‘toiles’ or ‘muslins’, but we use neither ‘toile’ (a upholstery-weight white printed fabric with red or blue images of vintage farm scenes and people) nor ‘muslin’ (a lightweight gauze). In the UK we use ‘Calico’ – a plain woven cotton fabric, but in the US, Calico is a printed fabric with very small flowers, stars or miniature shapes (p174). Confusing, non?
- Challis is pronounced ‘Shall-ee’ (p92). I have a French degree and never even realised that so I hang my head in shame.
- There’s such a thing as ‘Seersucker Thursday’: every June, US senators pay homage to the southern seersucker style by donning suits made from this lightweight summer fabric. Known as ‘Seersucker Thursday’, the tradition started in 1966 when Senator Trent Lott from Mississippi wanted to bring some southern charm to the Senate (p44)
- There is a difference between ‘interlock’ and ‘double knit’: Interlock is a double-sided fabric but not as thick and with more stretch (p141)
The book contains close-up photos of all the different types of fabrics, but of course it does fall down in comparison to books such as ‘Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book’ by Clive Hallett (which I own) due to its lack of tangible swatches. However, the Clive Hallett book is currently listed on Amazon for £39, whereas the RRP for this book is only £12.99, and I really think that is an absolute steal given the wealth of information it contains.
The ‘Selecting Fabrics’ section is split into five parts: woven fabrics, knit fabrics, speciality fabrics, blended fabrics and patterned fabrics. Each fabric type has a photograph, a description, a list of its properties, tips for working with it and tips for caring for it (laundering etc), plus the occasional ‘Did You Know…?’ or ‘Handy Hints’ bit of information.
The ‘Notions’ section contains a wealth of information about applique, lace, trims, ribbons, buttons, fasteners, buckles, elastic, zips and thread. The ‘Tools’ section contains information on pattern and planning tools, marking tools, measuring tools, cutting tools, sewing tools, pressing tools, machine presser feet and machine needles.
Basically, I want to conclude that this book is amazing and you all need a copy of it THIS INSTANT. Over and out.
Thanks to everyone who entered the giveaway for Jiffy 1356 and Simplicity 2404, two patterns kindly sent to me by Simplicity in honour of the vintage Simplicity 8203 pattern which was used to make the dress worn in this famous photograph:
The original dress and racquet were sold at auction on Saturday 5th July 2014 for a whopping £15,500! Unbelievable!
Anyway, to pick a winner for each pattern, I allocated each entrant a number and used a random number generator to pick for each pattern.
So, the winner of my giveaway for Jiffy 1356 is Simona!
And the winner of Simplicity 2404 is Stitched Up Sam!
Congratulations to both of you! Sam – please email me your address to email@example.com. Simona – I already have your postal address!
Will you both be making a plain white, mini version of the dress do you think, to recreate the tennis girl look?! I think I probably already know the answer to that question ;-)
Thanks again to Simplicity and to Conker Communications for providing the patterns.
***PLEASE NOTE THIS GIVEAWAY IS NOW CLOSED***
I interrupt normal service to bring you pictures of bums. I’m sure many of you will have seen the above ‘Tennis Girl’ image before, but did you know that the white tennis dress worn by the model was home-made using a Simplicity pattern? The pattern was Simplicity 8203.
The ‘Tennis Girl’ herself was 18-year old Fiona Butler, but both the dress and the tennis racquet belonged to her friend Carol Knotts, who had made the dress for herself using the Simplicity pattern. Fiona asked her friend if she could borrow the dress and the racquet in order to pose for the photograph, taken in 1976, by Martin Elliot, Fiona’s boyfriend at the time. The photograph first appeared in a Silver Jubilee calendar in 1977, and then went into widespread publication in 1978, when it sold more than two million copies worldwide. The ‘Tennis Girl’ shot has been recreated by a series of household names over the years – from pop princess Kylie Minogue…
Both the dress and the racquet used in the iconic photograph are set to be auctioned today, Saturday 5th July 2014, the day of the Wimbledon women’s single championships, for a reported £1,000-£2,000 price tag.
Although the original pattern is now out of print, Simplicity have released a number of similar styles over the year, such as the simple to sew Jiffy 1356 pattern, the ‘Amazing Fit’ Simplicity 2404, and Burda’s 6918 pinafore summer dress. Simplicity have very kindly sent me the first two of these patterns to give away to one of our readers!
I’m pretty intrigued by this pattern – it looks like fun to make! It’s a completely reversible wrap dress with no closures to sew. I really like the version shown on the pattern envelope. The copy I have been given is H5 size (US 6-14, EURO 32-40, FR 34-42).
I also have the Simplicity ‘Amazing Fit’ 2404 up for grabs.
Again this is size H5 (US 6-14, EURO 32-40, FR 34-42). The pattern envelope doesn’t sell this dress too well, but look at the line drawings at the bottom and you’ll see what a lovely design it is!
If you would like to win one of the patterns, please leave me a comment below, telling me which one you like best. Please make sure you enter your email address. I’ll post to anyone anywhere in the world. You’ve got just under a week to enter – until Friday 11th July at 12 noon UK time. I’ll pick a winner at random and announce it shortly after.
If you want to recreate the ‘Tennis Girl’ look with either of these patterns, you’ll have to shorten them considerably! Thankfully, Simplicity didn’t demand that I recreate the look in order to give away the patterns!
Thanks to everyone who entered our giveaway for the copy of Half Yard Heaven by Debbie Shore. The winner was…
Congratulations Jane Shore! I shall email you to get your postal address. Thanks to Search Press for providing the book.
If you didn’t win, watch this space as there will be another giveaway tomorrow… ;-)
I signed up for Kerry’s annual Spring Sewing Swap again this year – I mean, who doesn’t love a bit of guilt-free fabric shopping, and also receiving sewing parcels in the post? Not to mention getting to know some other bloggers!
I was paired with Annika of Naeh Connection, and she was much more organised than I am. She contacted me early on, and sent me my parcel with loads of time to spare. I bought Annika’s main thing at the Minerva Crafts meet-up, but didn’t get round to actually posting it until the last minute – but thankfully just in time for the deadline.
From Annika’s blog I could see she likes sewing for her children (who are a similar age to mine), and she likes sewing with jersey for herself. She likes bright, colourful prints and geometric designs. At the Minerva meet-up I was so pleased to find some lovely geometric-print jersey, and bought 1.5m of it which should hopefully be enough for Annika to make a top for herself or something for one of her children. The fabric was the main thing, but I threw in a few extras, of course!
Annika sent me a total winner of a parcel…
1.3m of gorgeous polka dot Georgette with co-ordinating thread, buttons, zip and trim, and a lovely card. Thanks so much, Annika, I love it! Such a happy colour and of course I’m always going to love polka dots :-) This might end up as a dress for Little Tweedie…watch this space!
I also sent Kerry a little something to say thanks for hosting the swap. I hope both recipients of my parcels were happy. I’ll be stalking Kerry’s blog to find out what goodies everyone else received!
…and made it into a dress for Little Tweedie using McCall’s M5032!
I recently sorted through a load of old dresses and rediscovered the dress pictured below. I think I bought it at the clothes show a few years ago, so perhaps it’s made by Uttam/Traffic People/Max C/Yumi or some such brand – I can’t remember exactly. The crossover wasn’t really the right shape to accommodate my bust, so I wasn’t interested in wearing it. But that fabric was too pretty to let go…
The dress was fully lined, and I managed to create a dress for my daughter, also fully lined. I cut an age 4 but it was too big at the side seams so I took it in substantially, and I’m still not overly happy with the fit under the arms, but it’s fine. I mean, the skirt is still beautiful and the model is pretty darn cute too, so…win!
And here are some other poses… I don’t know which I want to show off more – my sewing or my beautiful little girl!!!
This is not the first time I’ve chopped up one of my dresses in order to make one for my daughter instead: the following two dresses used to be adult-sized dresses! I made three or four baby dresses too out of my old dresses, but it’s so long ago I can’t find photos of those ones.
I love the ultimate uniqueness of these dresses. I love the memories that they hold of when I wore them, and the memories they make when my daughter wears them. I’ve never regretted cutting up the dresses – only felt sad when my daughter outgrew them. But this latest one should last a while yet! :-)
Oh, in case you missed it, I’m giving away a copy of ‘Half Yard Heaven’ by Debbie Shore – if you want to be in with a chance of winning this book you can enter until Friday 4th July, 12 noon UK time. It’s open to anyone anywhere – see here for more details!