A while back I unexpectedly sold one of my handmade dresses to a friend, and so I decided to treat myself with the proceeds and get some sewing supplies from Fancy Moon…
I tweeted the above picture and the lovely Vicki Kate suggested I make a Valentine’s dress with the Alexander Sweethearts fabric. And that’s exactly what I did, so thank you Vicki Kate for the suggestion!
I decided I needed a curvy dress for Valentine’s Day, and had been meaning to make the Colette Macaron for quite some time. The Macaron dress is described as ‘a flattering and curvy dress’ so I figured it would be a good choice for Valentine’s. Also, because of the side zip fastening, it meant that the front and back would be cut on the fold, so I wouldn’t have to worry about pattern matching too much. With a large scale print such as this, any pattern that minimises pattern matching is a bonus!
I have been trying to be a better seamstress this year, and for a while I agonised over whether or not to make a toile of this dress. In the end, I didn’t. I justified it by acknowledging the fact that a) I was about to make a novelty dress which wouldn’t exactly make it into my regular wardrobe rotation and b) I’d probably only be wearing it for a few hours before taking it off (ahem!). So yeah. ;-) As long as I could wear it, minor fitting issues weren’t going to bother me. Onwards!
I used the leftover silk charmeuse from my self-drafted slip for the contrast yoke and sleeves. It feels dreamy and deliciously smooth on my skin!
I went with plain black cotton for the midriff band, and actually for the back bodice as well as I only had 1.5m of the Alexander Henry fabric – just enough for the skirt front, back, and front bodice.
I really enjoyed making this dress. Colette as usual have come up trumps and, having made the Victory Patterns Ava dress late last year, I can definitely say Colette wins. The way that Colette has you join the yoke to the bodice is so much easier than the Victory way and makes for much better results.
I also love the skirt! It’s almost tulip style and I wasn’t sure I’d like it, but I’m really glad I gave it a try. I love the fact that it even has pockets! I’d like to make another Macaron in a more wintery fabric, like for some reason I’m dreaming of a kind of brown tweed version?! I don’t know what contrast though. Maybe something in a dusky pink? That’s the thing with this dress, you have to get the combination of fabrics just right, otherwise it can just look a bit… well, odd.
I hardly wasted a scrap of fabric with this make. I even made some Valentine’s bunting with the pin-up ladies for the bedroom!
So anyway, despite not making a toile, and not making a single adjustment at all to the pattern, I am pleased to report that the dress was not a bad fit at all! Now, these photos are not the best quality, but here’s what I actually looked like when I was wearing it…
The Colette Macaron: make one! It’s an ace pattern!
Howdy! Today I want to show you a dress I made a few weeks ago now – Simplicity 1652 which is part of their ‘Amazing Fit’ range. I made it with a fabric called ‘Up and Down Elephants’ by Timeless Treasures – the fabric was a Christmas gift! Yay!
I bought this pattern last summer, but it was seeing Kat’s lovely version that reminded me to dig it out and make it, plus I wanted to try a new pattern before I bored you all to tears with yet another variation on the Anna dress!!!
I made view A of the pattern, with the front tabs and proper sleeves, but chose view B for the back because I am partial to a cut out back. It just adds a bit of unexpected interest. Ironically though, with it being winter and all, I’ve had to put up with feeling a bit of cold air on my back because of the cut out. I have worn a cardigan with the dress a few times to avoid the chill, but then I get annoyed with myself because by wearing a cardigan I’m covering up the very feature of the dress I like best of all! In short – this dress will definitely be better for me to wear when it has warmed up a little!
I love this dress for many, many reasons:
1) The fabric!! I love the elephants. I love the colours, and the fact that from a distance it almost looks like multi-coloured houndstooth!
2) The fit!! It really is an ‘Amazing Fit’. I chose the D cup option and it was great not to have to worry about doing an FBA. It fits beautifully.
3) The pattern instructions!! Because my body measurements aren’t wildly out of sync with those on the pattern envelope, I did not have to make a toile. Instead, I just fitted as I went along, using the helpful tips provided in the pattern instructions.
4) The design/pattern drafting!! I love the different options you can get with this pattern: sleeves, cap sleeves, sleeveless, cut out back, normal back, front tabs, no tabs… And all options have pockets. And pockets are a WINNER.
On your average Mum-about-town day, I would wear this dress with black tights, black boots and a black cardi, but it also looks great with pink and red. In fact, I really think that the pink is my favourite way to wear this dress:
Lucky for me, I have a pretty extensive range of red and pink shoes, so that’ll keep me going for a while whilst I work out my ultimate favourite way to wear this dress!!
Ok, so what would you call this?
An underskirt? A slip? A half slip? A waist slip? A petticoat? Something else?
Anyway, I wear these a lot. I sew lots of cotton dresses: often they aren’t lined and I usually wear tights underneath. These thingymajigs stop my dresses from sticking to my tights, and they stop them from riding up.
Now, sometime last year my good friend Amy passed onto me a bunch of fabric she had decided she had no use for (thank youuuuu!). Amongst it was two metres of real, proper silk charmeuse! Lucky me! I was very excited after having done the burn test to have some real silk on my hands. But what to do with it? Of course you already know the answer… I used it to make a thingymajig!
Having looked, albeit briefly, at the construction of my other thingymajigs, I saw it was extremely simple. Like – two rectangles with elastic at the top and lace at the bottom. I thought I couldn’t go wrong…
The first toile was too tight at the hips and the waist felt too loose. I cut into it to see how much to add in, which is why it’s cut open on the photo. The second toile was too tight all over because I shaped it in line with my measurements but there was no closure so it was difficult to get it on (d’oh!). I ripped that one off – hence the giant tear in the picture! The third toile - I overcompensated and it completely drowned me. After that, I stopped arsing around, got myself some dot and cross paper and actually drafted a proper paper pattern, and it worked! Huzzah!
And after making the fifth, and final incarnation of the thingymajig, I am now suitably experienced in the art of stretching elastic like crazy and attaching it to a waistband with a three-step zigzag stitch!
I’m glad I put the silk to good use – this is practical clothing and luxury combined. It will get worn much more than if it had become the lining of only one dress, and much more than if I had made a blouse with it.
And if I ever happen to come by any more silk, I have my pattern ready to go!
Folks: I hate alterations. Even really simple stuff. I mean, it’s so boring, right?! Seriously, I’m with Marie when she says ‘once a make is done, it’s done!’. Like Marie, I would rather make something again from scratch than faff around with unpicking it and trying to sort it out.
But here is one exception: my Sewaholic Pirate Cambie dress, made last year. Man, I love this dress. The fabric, the style…everything about it. Apart from the fact it’s too big! I just couldn’t bear to see it hanging in my wardrobe, unwearable, and I wasn’t about to try and fatten up in order to wear it!
I knew I had to do something with it, but I also knew it wouldn’t just be as simple as taking it in a bit at the side seams, so, one weekend when Julia was here, I got her to pin it where it needed taking in, and let’s see….well….it needed taking in at the shoulders, at the side, at the top, at the back, under the bust…erm just about everywhere!
I was faced with the nightmarish prospect of a) unpicking the whole dress b) having to alter not only the main fabric but the full lining as well. I wasn’t exactly thrilled. Julia offered to help me unpick the dress, which was very kind, especially seeing as most of the seams were overlocked as well as stitched. That is a LOT of unpicking! At the time, I only had one seam ripper, so we took it in turns to unpick as much as we could stand to in one go!
We didn’t get it all unpicked that weekend, but eventually over the next few weeks I forced myself to get the lining and main dress completely detached, the skirt/waistband and skirt/waistband lining removed from the bodice, the zip unpicked, and the bodice and its lining completely taken to pieces, even with the darts unpicked. It then stayed like that in a plastic bag for a few months whilst I built up the willpower to tackle it.
The alterations I needed to make were too numerous, so I decided to trace a size smaller from the original pattern and use the existing pre-cut pieces, and re-sew them up a size smaller.
To ensure I could do this accurately, I used a trick learned from my pattern cutting class: I traced the new size, removed the seam allowance, and then thread traced around the pattern piece onto the fabric. This way I could see exactly where I would need to match up the seams, and I wouldn’t have to worry about seam allowance. It was also a very convenient way of marking the darts (I did have to adapt the front pattern piece to a single layer however, rather than on-the-fold).
I really struggled to keep motivated with this alteration. I resented having to spend hours and hours working on a dress I already made last year. I spent longer on this alteration than I did making the damn thing in the first place! I kept having to force myself to work on it, and I procrastinated a lot by finding other things to do instead…but eventually, at long, long last, I finished it. My first words to the husband as I emerged from the sewing room were: “I’ve f*cking done it!”, followed shortly after by a tweet to Julia saying ‘Thank f*cking f*ck, I’ve finally finished my alterations!’ Can you tell I was relieved?!
But was it worth it? YES! TOTALLY YES! The fact that I did keep on with it is testament to how much I love this dress. The fit is better – not perfect, mind, because I used the straight-out-of-the-packet size – but most importantly, I can wear it again! I wore it the very next day in fact, and received many compliments on it!
How do you other sewists feel about alterations? Love them or hate them?
Howdy. I want to show you my first make of 2014 today – my Colette Rooibos dress. I first made a Rooibos dress in 2011, and although I wore it quite a lot, the fit was not right at all across my bust. I ended up giving it away to a friend, and ever since I’ve been meaning to have another go at making the dress. Now that I have more sewing experience in general, and more pattern cutting experience, and most importantly, the spare cash to buy the fabric I have been wanting for ages, there was no excuse not to get on with it!
First of all, I traced off a size bigger than last time and made a toile. As I predicted, it was tight across the bust, and the midriff came too high up. I cut it open down the centre to see how much extra I would need to add in, and decided to start with 2 inches (or, 1″ per side). Adding in the extra actually meant that the centre of the bodice lengthened as well, so that sorted out the problem with the midriff quite nicely!
I followed the instructions given on the Coletterie website about making a full bust adjustment to the Rooibos dress, but it was problematic because my adjustment was much larger than the one demonstrated in the tutorial, and also the position of my ‘apex’ seemed quite different from where the pattern thinks it should have been. My darts ended up at crazy angles, so I had to reposition them, which wasn’t too difficult of course, just unexpected!
I made a second toile, and for some reason I was convinced that it wouldn’t work. Why do I not have more faith in myself?! When I tried it on, I was pleasantly surprised – it looked much better. The only further adjustment I wanted to make was to make the side darts shorter.
My proper version of this dress is made with green gabardine from Boyes. I’ve been eyeing up this fabric for AAAAGES. It isn’t majorly expensive at £7.85 per metre, but my usual rule is to try not to spend more than £5 per metre unless it’s a present or I’m using money earned from selling things I’ve made. But every now and then I’ll break the £5 rule for a special type of fabric. Annoyingly, I bought 2.5m of fabric, 1m of cotton lining fabric, 5m of bias binding, 5m of piping cord and a concealed zip, which came to around £30, but I have about a metre of the gabardine leftover! I will have to find a use for it.
The gabardine is really lovely quality. Excuse the pictures – the colour looks different in every single photo! It’s 100% cotton, it is a heavy and quite thick fabric but if feels really soft, and it doesn’t crease too badly. It’s ideal for winter and it feels quite hardwearing. I’m already thinking about using it again for future projects, definitely in mustard yellow and maybe red, and perhaps navy blue (and orange and pink and purple and black hahahaha).
The bias binding for the piping is a floral design, it reminds me of a Liberty print. The flowers are mainly pink and purple and the background is cream. My lining or ‘contrast’ fabric is a simple 100% cream coloured cotton.
I got carried away with the piping. I piped the armholes, the neckline, the midriff bottom, the pockets and the hem. I especially like the piping at the hem because it helps the dress keep its A-line silhouette.
I really enjoyed making this dress. It felt really good to take my time over it, get the fit right, and do all the little details to make it nice. I’ve worn it three times so far and it has felt pretty but practical, and stylishly comfortable. It’s definitely shot right into my top ten of wardrobe staples!
There were a few things wrong with the pattern instructions, I thought. I don’t know if these are actually errors as I have an old copy of the pattern, bought in 2011, but for instance you are instructed to interface the contrast facings?! I thought that was pretty unnecessary, with them being rather large. But on the other hand I did think it was necessary to interface the midriff band (and so I did). Also there were no prompts to finish the raw edges of the facings, which I thought was strange because Colette Patterns usually spell out every last instruction for you (hence why they are so good for beginners). There were a few other things that were missed out or just plain wrong (typically I can’t remember what they were now!) …but hopefully in later prints of the pattern these errata have been addressed.
I do absolutely love, in a complete geek fashion, the instructions for attaching the facings to the main dress though. That whole rolling up thing, turning it back on itself and pulling it all through the shoulder? That is pattern MAGIC. I actually made my husband come to watch so he could witness the wonder of the sewing magic! (He was suitably impressed). It reminded me of making the Colette Negroni shirts, where you do a similar rolling up trick to attach the inner yoke facing. I love those neat little sewing tricks!
Hi, hi, and a very happy new year to you all! I’ve been a busy little blogger recently, getting all my makes blogged before 2014 rolled around, and I didn’t quite get chance to write this before New Year. I had trifle to make, you know? Priorities.
This post isn’t to show you a finished project anyway, or rather, not a new finished project! I finished my sewing for the year on the 23rd December, and my total number of completed projects for 2013 is 55! I’m really pleased with this, after all I did give birth in January and breastfed my baby and looked after a 3 year old too. My sewing productivity increased dramatically in the latter half of the year, because I’ve managed to get the children into a good, and predictable napping routine.
Of these 55 projects, 28 were for myself - 20 dresses, 5 tops, 2 pyjama bottoms and 1 pair of culottes. But this year I’ve made quite a few things as gifts for others (21) and I’ve had a few commissions and sales (6), which has been excellent.
Anyway, onto my top 5 hits and misses – idea courtesy of the lovely Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow. I’ll start with my misses as I want to end on a positive note!
- January 2013 – Simplicity 5366 Men’s Shirt – too big – my husband usually wears more tailored, closer-fitting shirts than this. I also accidentally did the buttonholes on the wrong side – oops.
3. September 2013 – Simplicity 1610 jersey maxi dress - yuck, yuck, yuckity yuck. I chopped off the maxi skirt to turn it into a top instead and used the chopped off bit to make a skirt for my daughter.
4. December 2013 – Megan Nielsen Tania Culottes - I think it’s mainly my fabric choice that doesn’t work for these culottes. I’m tempted to try again with a rayon or similar.
And that’s it – only four ’misses’ for 2013. I was going to include my Colette Jasmine blouse but everyone who commented seemed to think it was nice and I’m still undecided – so I’m not counting it as a failure!
Now for the ‘hits’:
1. March 2013 – Colette Parfait Maxi - I love, love, love this pattern, and I love, love, love this maxi. I can’t give it much higher praise. I will definitely be making another of these in 2014.
2. April 2013 – Sewaholic Pirate Cambie - This dress is ALL about the fabric. Sure, the Cambie is a nice enough pattern, but it’s the print that really makes this dress cool. The bad thing about this make is that because I made it so soon after giving birth, it is now too big, and is currently sitting in a bag in my sewing room completely unpicked and taken apart to be re-made in a smaller size. Hopefully I will get round to this at some point, because I really really do love it and I miss having it in my wearable wardrobe.
3. April-May 2013 – The Gertie Shirtwaist Dresses – I made two of these: one for me and the other for Julia for her 30th birthday. I conquered bound buttonholes and shirring by making them so I feel like they were a good achievement.
4. October 2013 and December 2013 – Clergy/Clerical Shirts – I made these for my friend who is a priest in the Church of England, one black and one red. I drafted a pattern based on an existing shirt she had. I’m really proud that I was able to work out how to make these.
5. November 2013 and December 2013 - By Hand London Anna dress – I made five of these, but I’m only including my green version with a gathered skirt and my maxi version as my favourites. I really do love both of these. If I needed a tiny capsule wardrobe, these two dresses would be included without a doubt.
6. September – December 2013 – My self-drafted dress, made on my pattern cutting course. This dress is a real achievement for me and the making of it was a huge learning curve. I love it!
So there you go. I am very pleased with my year of sewing, and I look forward to more in 2014!